Surf

I stood thigh deep in foamy, frothy water that pulled at my legs and counted my heart beats.  Nine beats and a wave lifted me, danced with me and moved on, sighing into creamy bubbles on the the sand.  My board beside me, I had the rhythm now.  On the seventh beat I jumped, slid up the firm board and balanced on my belly as the next wave caught me on it's green shoulder and rushed towards the beach.  Eyes wide, laughing at the ridiculous, delicious weightlessness of the moment, we charged the shore together, the wave and I, until the sand and gravity won out. With a final surge the wave set me back on earth and dissolved into nothing.  Heavy and human again, I grabbed my board and headed back out, counting heart beats...

Surfing rocks.